Solid wood tables are a popular choice, but to get the best and longest use it helps to have an understanding of how to care for and maintain them.
This can be broken down into four areas: assembly, cleaning, re-finishing and environment.
Assembly: get off to a good start
When a new table arrives, the temptation is often to get it set up and in use as soon as possible. Our delivery methods vary and therefore so does the packaging. If you have been sent the table via postal courier it will be wrapped up in cardboard. Please try to avoid using a knife to open it as there is a chance it could go too deep and scratch the table. Try to use your hands to tear open entirely, or if necessary make a small incision with a knife and pull the material away by hand.
Another common issue is how to protect the surface when the legs are being attached. For practical reasons, our dining tables and desks will arrive ‘flat packed’. Most people will place the table face down on the floor in order to screw in the legs. This is fine, but we strongly advise customers to put down soft sheets (towels, rugs, blankets etc.) to protect the surface from direct contact with the floor. This is especially important if the floor is concrete, tiles or other hard material.
The safest way to screw in the legs is with a manual screwdriver, rather than electric. This means you can get a good connection with a much lower risk of over-tightening. If you do use an electric screwdriver, make sure to slow down as the screw is getting to its optimum tightness. Also ensure body of the electric screwdriver does not make contact with – and potentially scratch – the legs.
When the legs are on and the table is ready to be placed the right way up, be careful not to damage the legs by pivoting the table on them. Putting a dining table or desk the right way up should always be done by at least two people and with minimal weight on the legs as it is being turned over to stop them breaking off via the lever force being exterted.
Cleaning: keep your table looking its best
Perhaps the most important factor in table maintenance over the long term is how it is cleaned.
The best option for cleaning our tables is a simple detergent product or soapy water. By simple product we mean something that is a de-greaser rather than a strong chemical.
In these post-Covid times many of us have got used to using powerful anti-bacterial cleaning sprays and disinfectants, but do not be tempted to use them on solid wood tables. The reality is that their harsh chemical composition will not only get rid of batercia etc., it will also gradually strip down your table’s finish.
We generally use a type of product called hardwax oil as the protective finish on our solid wood tables. As well as enriching the natural appearance of the wood, it also forms an ultra thin ‘skin’ on the surface which is highly water resistant.
A table where the oil finish remains intact can last several years as a very effective barrier against staining substances. However, the more often you use chemical cleaners, the faster the oil is likely to deteriorate. Over a matter of months, we would expect a table top cleaned daily with an anti-bacterial/anti-viral to have thinner protetive coating and gradually be vulerable to absorbing drinks, foods and so on.
Basic, commonly found products such as washing up liquid (greatly watered down) and non-toxic sprays are the ideal solution as a day-to-day cleaning option. Even just plain water wiped on and dried off should deal with most stains once the table has been properly protected with hardwax oil. The same care advise appiles to tables with other popular finishes on, such as varnishes and laquers, which will all be eroded by the use of harsh chemicals.
Tip: never use the scouring side of a sponge as this can take off the finish in just few hard rubs. The stain may go but you could easily be left with an unprotected dull patch on your table top.
Environment: prevent wood movement
In an age where factory produced cheap veneered furniture is ubiquitous, solid wood stands out as a premium option. Mass market furniture is mostly made from a sheet material such as chipboard or MDF with a thin later of either real wood (a veneer), laminate (hard plastic) or a top surface that resembles printed paper.
The downside of these cheap surface materials is that they are prone to chipping, peeling, tearing, blistering and so on but a benefit is that they tend to be quite ‘stable’ – they don’t ‘move’ in the way that solid wood does in response to humidty. Most of us are famiiar with wooden doors that expand and contract slightly as the seasons change. One day they may open smootly and the next for no apparent reason they are stiff and hard to operate. This problem is caused by the wood absorbing airbourne moisture – and it happens to solid wood tables as well as doors.
Wood movement shouldn’t be a problem with the tables we make, as they are fitted with staightening bars to help the surface remain flat as it exands and contracts. However in extremently damp air environments it is possible that the effect could cause expansion and therefore result in small splits and cracks. The best way to prevent this would be the use of a dehumidifier if experiencing humid weather conditions, or if, for example, you are frequenty leaving clothes to dry in the room.
Re-finishing: refresh and restore your table
Despite your best maintenance efforts, after a while (hopefully not for several years) you may decide its time to give your table top a fresh start. A combination of daily cleaning, accidental damage (the occasional hot pan, red wine spill left overnight etc.) and just general wear and tear can take their toll.
The good news is that it should be straightforward to refinish your solid wood table. The first step is to sand down the table top, removing the old finish and any strains, scratches, burns and so on. The fastest way to sand a table is using an electric sander. The type we recommend for speed and efficiency is called a random orbital sander but a sightly weaker oscillating type usually works fine (if a bit slower). Be careful not to over-sand any one area and create dips and bumps! Also watch out when sanding any more detailed parts like profile edges and corners – you may wish to sand those by hand as with an electric sander, even a few seconds held over a section can change it’s shape and appearance.
Tip: most modern sanders have a dust extraction port for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose – they can be very effective at keeping the air free of sanding dust. It is always a good idea to also use eye and ear protection when operating electric sanders.
When you have finished sanding, give the top a good wipe down and make sure it is as dust free as practically possible.
The final step is to apply a protective coat of finish. We generally choose a hardwax oil, usually applying at least two coats – depending on the type of table (more coats are advised for a dining table than a desk).
If you prefer a varnish we would recommend a water-based option for achieving a good even finish. Oil-based varnishes can offer more protection but require skill and practice to apply evenly. In any case, always follow the insructions on the tin.
Tip: you can apply most finishes with either a sponge, a roller or a brush. The sponge is easiest to get looking good but offers the least protection as it goes on very thinly. A brush is the most protective but the hardest to get looking good and a roller is somewhere in-between.
Hopefully this guide to caring for and maintaining your solid wood table has been helpful, and if you would like any more information about our products please contact us.